So Moles Wrecked Your Lawn—Now What? A Humane How-To for Undoing the Underground Chaos

You walk outside with your morning coffee, take one look at your lawn, and nearly drop your mug. What was once a sea of green now looks like a tiny gopher rodeo broke out overnight—soil mounds, soft tunnels, maybe a patch or two that looks like it's been through a turf tornado. Yep. You’ve got moles.

Don’t panic. While those pint-sized diggers are powerfully efficient (a single mole can tunnel up to 100 feet in a day—basically the Olympic gymnasts of the underground), the good news is your lawn can bounce back. And no, you don’t have to tear up the whole thing or declare defeat to Team Mole.

Let’s break this down step by step—scientifically sound, 100% humane, and zero gimmicks involving chewing gum or old wive’s tales.

Step 1: Flatten the Molehills (The Dirt Drama)

First up: tackle those unsightly soil mounds. Grab your rake or shovel and start gently leveling each molehill. Think of this like smoothing the icing on a cake…if the icing had been tossed by a dirt-obsessed rodent.

Break up any large clumps and spread the soil evenly. Then give it a little tamp-down love—use your foot, the back of the rake, or a flat board. Just don’t pack it in like you’re prepping for a concrete pour. You want a smooth, not suffocated, surface.

Scientist's Note: Flattening those mounds helps prevent smothered grass and lets water actually reach the roots. Bonus: this step makes it easier for your next lawn care efforts to stick.

Extra Credit: Before you flatten everything, consider dropping some castor-oil-based mole repellent into any open tunnels. It won’t hurt the moles (which we like), but it will give them a nudge to tunnel elsewhere (which we really like). My friends at Valley View recommend EPIC Repellents:

Step 2: Deflate the Tunnels (No More Lumpy Lawn)

Now it’s time to stomp out those spongy surface tunnels. Literally. Walk slowly along the ridges—heel-to-toe like you’re on a runway of revenge. Or use a lawn roller if you have one handy. Heck, a riding mower will do in a pinch, as long as you’re careful.

You’re collapsing the underground air pockets so the grass can reconnect with the soil and start healing. Think of this as lawn CPR—gentle compression, no mouth-to-mouth required.

Step 3: Fill in the Sinkholes (Soil First Aid)

Moles don’t just move earth—they remove it. So don’t be surprised if you notice dips and divots that weren’t there before. Fill those suckers with good-quality topsoil or a compost/topsoil blend. Rake to level and, if needed, give it a soft tamp.

Pro Tip: Slightly overfill and tamp lightly—soil settles. And if your ground is compacted? Give it a quick poke with a garden fork before filling. Your future grass roots will thank you.

Step 4: Reseed or Sod the Bare Bits (Time to Green It Up)

Any turf that looks more brown than green needs some love. Overseed with the same type of grass you already have (no Franken-lawns, please). Sprinkle seeds over the newly filled areas and any thin patches. Aim for Goldilocks coverage—not too thick, not too sparse.

Scratch them into the soil with a rake or your fingers, tamp gently, and add a whisper-thin layer of straw if birds are lurking. If the damage is serious, sod might be your speedier (but pricier) solution.

Goal: Seed-to-soil contact = faster germination + stronger roots = a happier lawn.

Step 5: Water Like You Mean It

Until your grass is two inches tall and proud, it needs water like a squirrel needs a nut stash. Keep the soil moist (not soggy) with light watering once or twice a day for the first couple of weeks. After that, switch to deeper waterings a few times a week.

When it’s time to mow, keep your blades sharp and high (about 3 inches) to protect those delicate sprouts. Hold off on picnics, lawn games, or dramatic family reunions on the new grass until it's thickened up.

Timing Is Everything (When to Do the Dirty Work)

Your best bet for lawn rehab? Early spring or early fall—cooler temps, steady moisture, and grass that’s ready to grow like it just drank a green smoothie. Mid-summer is tricky (seeds dry out faster than you can say “sprinkler”), and late fall might not give new grass enough time to root before frost hits.

Keep Moles from Moving Back In (While You’re At It)

Now’s your chance to make your lawn a less attractive Airbnb for moles.

• Cut the buffet: Apply natural grub control (like milky spore or beneficial nematodes). No grubs = no mole happy hour.

• Drain smarter: Moles love moist soil. Improve drainage and avoid overwatering—your lawn and your water bill will both thank you.

• Repel responsibly: Use castor-oil-based repellents around the perimeter and in problem spots. Think of it as a polite “No Vacancy” sign for future moles.

Wrapping It Up (Before the Moles Do)

Mole damage might make your lawn look like a topographic map now, but don’t worry—you’ve got this. With the right tools, a little know-how, and some science-backed TLC, your grass will be back to lush, level, and mole-free before you know it.

So, grab your rake, channel your inner lawn whisperer, and reclaim your turf. Your yard’s comeback story starts now—and trust me, it’s going to be a green one.